Open M-F, 9-5 CST
Disclaimer: This guide is for educational purposes only. High-voltage electricity is dangerous and can be fatal. Always follow local regulations, wear protective gear, and if you are unsure about any step, call a licensed professional immediately.
Is your power blinking like a disco strobe? Don't panic! Repairing solar inverters often just takes a hard reset or checking for loose connections. It’s easier than assembling flat-pack furniture.
Read on to diagnose error codes, fix the glitch, and save a fortune on service calls!
Before you grab your screwdriver, we need to have a serious talk. Solar inverters are not toasters. They handle high-voltage DC electricity that can jump (arc) and cause fatal shocks.
There is a massive difference between "basic maintenance" and "board-level repair."
You can safely DIY:
Performing a hard reset.
Cleaning dust from external fans and vents.
Tightening loose external wire connections (only with the power off!).
Replacing external fuses.
Call a Pro immediately if:
You smell burning plastic or ozone.
You see smoke coming from the unit.
The repair requires soldering internal components.
You are unsure if the capacitors are discharged.
The Capacitor Trap: Even if you unplug the inverter, the large capacitors inside can hold a lethal charge for hours. If you don't know how to safely discharge a capacitor, do not open the metal casing.
Most modern inverters are smart enough to tell you what's wrong. Before you start tearing things apart, look at the screen. The error code (like "Error 019" or "Fault F-04") is your treasure map. Check your user manual to decipher it.
If the screen is blank or the error is vague, you need to play detective.
Fuses are the "bodyguards" of your inverter. If a power surge hits, the fuse takes the bullet to save the expensive electronics.
The Test: Locate the fuse holder (usually near the inputs). Take the fuse out and use a multimeter set to "Continuity" (the beep mode). Touch the probes to both ends. No beep? The fuse is dead. Replace it.

Capacitors are harder to fix but easy to spot.
The Look: Healthy capacitors look like small soda cans with flat tops. Bad capacitors look like they are about to explode—the tops will be bulging, domed, or leaking a rusty fluid. If you see this, the circuit board is likely toast.
Sometimes, the hardware is fine, but the computer brain is confused. This happens often after grid fluctuations or lightning storms.
The fix is the classic IT support move: The Hard Reset.
Turn off the AC Breaker (House side).
Turn off the DC Disconnect (Solar side).
Wait 5 minutes. This allows the internal power to drain completely.
Turn the DC on first, then the AC.
This simple cycle clears the cache and fixes about 50% of "mystery" errors.

If the electronics are fine but physical parts are broken, you can often swap them out yourself without touching the scary high-voltage stuff.
Cooling Fans Heat is the #1 killer of inverters. If your unit is overheating, check the fans at the bottom or back. In many models, the fans are "plug-and-play" cartridges. You simply unscrew a plate, unplug the old fan, and slide in a new one. No soldering required.
LCD Screens Screens fade over time, especially if they sit in the sun. If the display is unreadable but the green light is on, the inverter is likely still working. Replacing the screen usually involves opening the front cover and unplugging a small ribbon cable. It’s delicate work, but manageable if you have steady hands.
Here is the tricky part. You can’t just buy generic parts at the local hardware store.
Check the Label: You need the exact Model Number and Serial Number from the side sticker.
Authorized Distributors: Don't buy random parts on eBay. Go to a dedicated solar spare parts distributor (like the manufacturer's official support site or authorized resellers).
The "Graveyard": sometimes, you can find a broken inverter of the same model selling cheaply online. You can harvest the fans, screen, or outer casing from the "donor unit" to fix yours.